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Grading & site prep

Rough and finish grading to move water away from structures, take the humps and hollows out of a yard, and leave ground the next trade can actually work on. Quoted per job.

1–2%Minimum fall to
move water on sand
6ftFall we want in the
first 10ft off a slab
1–3Days for a
residential yard
$0Deposit on mulching
and site work
What it is

Land grading: making water go where you want it

On flat sandy ground, nearly every drainage problem is a shape problem. Fix the shape and most of them go away without a single pipe.

Central Florida is flat, sandy and gets a lot of rain in a short season. That combination means water doesn’t run off a property so much as sit on it and wait. Standing water in a yard is almost never a mystery. It’s a low spot with nowhere to drain to, or a slope running the wrong way.

Grading fixes that with shape: fall away from structures, swales to collect and carry water to somewhere it can leave, and low spots filled so nothing ponds. Done properly it’s invisible. Nobody looks at a well-graded yard and notices anything, which is exactly the point.

Rough grade and finish grade

Rough grade gets the ground to about the right shape and elevation. The stage a builder needs before foundations, and where most site prep stops. Finish grade is the fine pass that takes out the tracks, smooths the surface and leaves it ready for sod, seed or paving.

The scope boundary worth stating plainly: we work on your property. Shaping ground, cutting swales and correcting fall are all fair game. Tying into a street drain, a public storm system or a sewer main isn’t something we take on.

Common jobs

  • Standing water in a yard after every storm
  • Ground sloping toward a house instead of away
  • A lot left lumpy after clearing or construction
  • Ruts and low spots in a pasture or paddock
  • Preparing ground for sod, seed or a slab
Fit

What grading can and can’t fix

Grading solves

  • Water ponding in a low spot with nowhere to go
  • Fall running toward a structure instead of away from it
  • A yard left rough after clearing, a build or a demolition
  • Ground that needs to be flat and firm before sod or paving
  • Ruts, wheel tracks and washouts across a large area

Grading won’t fix

  • A water table that comes up to the surface in wet season
  • Water arriving from a neighboring property uphill of you
  • Anything that needs to connect to a public storm or sewer system
  • A foundation or slab that has already moved
  • Drainage on ground you don’t own or control
Process

How a grading job runs

Four steps, and the useful photos are the ones taken while it’s still wet.

  • Look at it wet, if you canPhotos taken during or just after a hard rain tell us more in ten seconds than a dry-day walk-through does in an hour. Mark where it sits.
  • Work out where the water can goEvery solution ends with water leaving somewhere. Finding that somewhere on your own property is the part that takes judgment.
  • Cut, fill and shapeHigh spots cut down, low spots filled, swales cut where water needs a route, and consistent fall established away from anything that matters.
  • Finish and check the fallSurface worked smooth and the fall verified rather than assumed. Where it matters, we run water on it before we load out.

Rules of thumb we work to:

  • Six inches of fall in the first ten feet away from a slab or foundation. That single rule prevents most residential water complaints.
  • One to two percent minimum across open ground. Flatter than that and water stops moving on sand.
  • Never grade water toward a boundary you don’t control. Solving your problem by creating your neighbor’s isn’t a fix.

Get a number for your yard

Coverage

Where we grade

Five Central Florida counties out of Titusville, and the drainage picture is different between them.

FAQ

Questions about grading and drainage

Can you fix the standing water in my yard?

Usually, and the first question is where the water can go once it moves. If there’s a lower point on your property, a ditch line, or an area that drains, we can normally shape a route to it. If your whole lot is the low point in the neighborhood, we’ll tell you that honestly rather than take money to push water in a circle.

What’s the difference between rough and finish grade?

Rough grade gets the ground to about the right shape and elevation. What a builder needs before foundations go in. Finish grade is the fine pass that takes out the machine tracks and leaves a surface ready for sod, seed or paving. Most site prep only needs rough.

Do you bring in fill?

When there’s nowhere on site to take material from, yes. Cut and fill within your own property is much cheaper, so the first thing we look at is whether the high spots and low spots can solve each other.

Will grading damage my existing grass?

Anywhere we work, yes. Grading means moving the surface. What we can do is confine the work to the area that actually needs it and keep machine traffic off the rest. If the finished area is going back to sod, plan for that as part of the job.

Can you tie into the street drain?

No. We work on private property. Anything that connects into a public storm system or a sewer main is a different trade under state licensing and it’s not work we take on. If that’s what your situation needs, we’ll say so early rather than halfway through.

How long does a yard take?

Most residential yards are one to three days depending on size, how much material has to move and whether fill is being imported. A rough grade on a cleared build site is usually quicker than correcting drainage around an existing house.

Send photos. Get a number.

Most quotes come back the same day. No deposit on mulching or site work, and the price we agree on is the price you pay.

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